Milan ease: seven key collections from the spring/summer 2018 shows
From tiny shorts at Prada and summer cord at Salvatore Ferragamo, to a 90s revival at Versace and Diesel Black Gold, our menswear editor picks the best of Milan
- After last season’s flashback to the 70s, Mrs Prada propelled us forward into the future, looking at the divide between virtual reality and reality. What does that mean in terms of clothes? Short thigh-skimming shorts styled with knee-high socks, shirts with collars worn popped up, graphic novel prints and large bumbags worn facing backwards. Aside from short shorts, the top story was jumpsuits; even the matching tops and trousers were styled neatly tucked to give the illusion of a one-piece.
- Francesco Risso is only two seasons into his tenure at Marni and has already hit his stride. SS18 is the perfect balance of the label’s colour play with an element of off-kilteredness. Think layered and patched stripe shirts, skew-whiff collars and clashing prints. Many looks were styled with hi-tops, ticking off the 90s accessories revival trend. See also bucket hats at Neil Barrett and Missoni and neon styles at Giuseppe Zanotti.
- A celebration of all things Versace on the 20th anniversary of Gianni’s death. The show returned to the garden of Palazzo Versace, via del Gesù, with the perspex invitation requesting ‘Meet at my place’. ‘Millennial’ is currently the most overused word in fashion: at Versace the hits of the 90s – prints, cargo pants (breaking: they are back for 2018) and pinstripe tailoring were presented with this new millennial customer in mind. And yes, pale pink did feature, as did a reworked Versace logo.
- The 90s – aka the trend that keeps on giving – saw another reincarnation in Diesel’s ‘Techno Grunge’ themed show. For men, proportions were extended on jackets and shirts. Shorts were layered over leggings and worn with boots for an urban look that blurred the line between summer and winter. The women’s collection, also shown, focused on that classic 90s look of spaghetti-strap floral dresses over fitted T-shirts.
- Angela Missoni celebrates 20 years at the helm of the family brand this year; a co-ed show is scheduled during the womenswear calendar in September. The press had a showroom tour with the designer to preview menswear inspired by “the urban gardener” and drawing on colours from the travel photographer Erwin Fieger’s Japan: Sunrise-Island. The resulting collection comprised signature Missoni knitwear, excellent shorts and jumpsuits in Missoni prints.
- Canadian pop star (and millennial) Shawn Mendes closed the show displaying his touchscreen smart watch, the newest addition to the Emporio Armani Connected line. The design features customisable watch faces and interchangeable straps, and goes on sale this autumn.
- Fashion fans will know that corduroy is hurtling towards a moment this autumn. But don’t wait – Salvatore Ferragamo made a strong case for summer cord, particularly the well-cut shorts, also shown in a pleasing stripe if you can’t be convinced of the merits of winter fabrics in the blazing sun.